Béchamel

My mother used to say that if you can make a good white sauce, you can cook anything.

Now, she was a good cook (and an even better baker), but she struggled with sauces. I don't know why; she made excellent gravy. I think she simply lacked confidence.

I did not learn to cook from my mother. She would have been thrilled if I had shown an interest, but I never did, beyond asking her to show me how to make scrambled eggs when I was about 11 years old. I think I already knew how to boil hot dogs by then.

When I started preparing meals, they came mostly from boxes and cans and envelopes, but then I found that carefully following a (good) recipe will produce first-rate fare. It also provides experience that helps to develop culinary skills.

I've heard that all cooks, even professional chefs, have one thing that is the bane of their existence, one ingredient that confounds them or one technique that they just can't master. Mine is phyllo dough. I cannot make it work, and I've given up trying.

But I make a terrific white sauce.